At The Seams Patterns - Sewing Tutorial: Lily Sleepwear Set

The Lily Sleepwear Set is the perfect feminine pattern for hot summer nights, designed to keep you cool, comfortable and cute. The top features a loose-fitting bodice for breathable comfort, finished with a playful circular shoulder frill. Paired with relaxed elastic-waist shorts, the set offers an easy pull-on fit with high-cut sides that elongate the legs — ideal for warm evenings and relaxed mornings.

Suitable for beginner to intermediate sewists, The Lily Sleepwear Set is a rewarding project that uses mostly straightforward construction techniques, with the circular shoulder frill hem offering a slightly more advanced finish to refine your skills.

To begin, you will need the following things

Materials

Lily Summer Sleepwear Set paper pattern, or if you prefer to shop on Etsy
1.5-2.3m fabric
0.5m lining
2cm wide elastic
cotton thread (enough to also thread your overlocker)

Tools

scissors
pins
sewing machine
overlocker
iron
bodkin or large safetypin

Tips

If you are using a printed fabric for your main fabric, when choosing your lining colour, it helps to choose the thread at the same time. You want your thread to match your lining colour but to also blend as much as possible into the print you have chosen. Some thread colours disguise better on the print than others, so check a couple of colours.
Ensure your fabric is washed, dried, and pressed before you start cutting. For instance, there is nothing worse than washing your beautiful garment and it shrinks, or even more annoying the lining shrinks and the main doesn’t so its all pulled out and shape and is unwearable.

If you prefer video instructions – please head over to youtube.

Top Sewing Instructions

Step 1

Cut all main and lining pieces accurately on the correct grain, ensuring all notches are clipped.

Please note that all seam allowance is marked on the pattern in a grey dashed line and can also be found on page 3 of the booklet provided with the purchased pattern.

Also, if you need help with pattern cutting instructions, these can be found in the same booklet.

Beginner tip* If you can afford to purchase a rotary cutter and cutting mat, I find this more accurate and time-efficient.

SHOULDER FRILL & STRAPS

Step 2

Overlock each outside edge of the frill from the right side of the fabric.

Fold the overlocked edge over and press in place.

Stitch to secure.

In-depth instructions for help on heming a circular hem can be found here.

Step 3

Then run 2 gathering stitches on the inside edge of each frill.

If you need extra help with gathering, please see the more in-depth gathering tutorial here.

Skip this step if you would prefer the style without the shoulder frill.

Step 4

Gather the frills to each side of the straps so that right sides are facing. Pin in place. Use the notches to ensure the gathers are spread evenly.

Step 5

Then place the lining strap piece on top so that the frill is sandwiched between the strap pieces. Pin in place to hold.

Step 6

Stitch the seam using a 1cm seam allowance.

Step 7

Then remove the gathering threads.

Step 8

Then roll the frill into the strap and out of the way so that you can pin the other side of the strap together.

Step 9

Then stitch closed with a 1cm seam allowance.

Step 10

Pull the straps the right way through and press well and set adside.

BODICE YOKE

Step 11

Take front and back yoke of main and pin the side seams together. Repeat on lining.

Step 12

Stitch closed with a 1.5cm seam allowance

Step 13

Then press the seams open.

ATTACHING STRAPS – I recommend watching the video tutorial if this step is confusing.

Step 14

Pin the straps to the main fabric part of the yoke so that right sides are facing, using the notches as a placement guide. Double check to ensure the straps have been pinned with the frill facing outwards towards the shoulder. Check the paper pattern if you are confused about which end is the front or back of the strap.

Step 15

Then pin the yoke lining in place so that right sides are facing and the straps are sandwiched between the main and lining. Ensure the pieces match at the side seams.

Step 16

Stitch closed using a 1cm seam allowance.

Step 17

Then clip the corners and front armhole curves.

Step 18

Fold the yoke down and the straps up, and press the top edge well.

Step 19

Then, stay stitch the bottom edges of the yoke together using a 5mm seam allowance then set aside.

LOWER BODICE

Step 20

Place the front and back lower bodice right sides together and pin the side seams together.

Step 21

Stitch closed with a 1.5cm seam allowance

Step 22

Then overlock closed from the front side of the bodice.

Step 23

Press the seam allowance towards the back.

Step 24

Then run 2 gathering stitches on the top edge of the front and back between the gathering notches.

Step 25

Pin the lower bodice to the yoke right sides together, gather the lower bodice to fit the yoke ensuring the gathers are distributed evenly.

Step 26

Then stitch closed with a 1cm seam allowance.

Step 27

Then remove the gathering threads.

Step 28

Overlock the seam closed from the lower bodice side.

Step 29

Then press the seam allowance upwards.

HEM

Step 30

Overlock the hem edge from the right side of the fabric, ensuring the side seam allowances are stitched towards the back.

Step 31

Fold the hem and press in place.

Step 32

Then stitch to secure.

Your Top is now complete. Keep scrolling for the short instructions.